a surfer never quits surfing, even when he can no longer paddle out.
Back when he could still make the short trek up the trail, used to occasionally see old Stan Ross on the bluff at Ross's Cove, leaning against his cane, watching the waves.
"Hi, Ross. Whatcha doing?"
"Surfing"....
(ICC)
One thing that takes the fun out of surfing is the younger generation of it's all about me, had I acted like this as a youth, a severere beating would have been the result from my old man. Todays young surfers have NO RESPECT for the older surfers or any other person in the water, but if you are balding or white haired, you are fair game to be ripped off on any wave they see you paddling for. There is no way an older person could possibly surf well, so rip them off at every chance and tell them you'll beat their ass too.
Assault on the ederly is punishable by 5 years mandatory, no parole.
It has made me not surf for months at a time, I surf for the closeness to God, clear my head of the troubles of the day, experience the thrill that only a surfer knows.
Not being so pissed off in the water that it all that is in my mind, I had to turn up under some 20 something at Church's on Monday, me was going to take the wave from me at any cost, I hope it cost him plenty to get the ding fixed, when you drop in on me and I lose control, my board might fly out from under my feet and hit you in the head, be careful of us old surfers
(jim the genius)
Back when he could still make the short trek up the trail, used to occasionally see old Stan Ross on the bluff at Ross's Cove, leaning against his cane, watching the waves.
"Hi, Ross. Whatcha doing?"
"Surfing"....
(ICC)
One thing that takes the fun out of surfing is the younger generation of it's all about me, had I acted like this as a youth, a severere beating would have been the result from my old man. Todays young surfers have NO RESPECT for the older surfers or any other person in the water, but if you are balding or white haired, you are fair game to be ripped off on any wave they see you paddling for. There is no way an older person could possibly surf well, so rip them off at every chance and tell them you'll beat their ass too.
Assault on the ederly is punishable by 5 years mandatory, no parole.
It has made me not surf for months at a time, I surf for the closeness to God, clear my head of the troubles of the day, experience the thrill that only a surfer knows.
Not being so pissed off in the water that it all that is in my mind, I had to turn up under some 20 something at Church's on Monday, me was going to take the wave from me at any cost, I hope it cost him plenty to get the ding fixed, when you drop in on me and I lose control, my board might fly out from under my feet and hit you in the head, be careful of us old surfers
(jim the genius)
Huck, I guess I have been blessed in that I have not had very many unpleasant experiences with the younger surfing crowd. Most places I have surfed, I have found that my white hair and years got a certain amount of respect from the younger surfers as long as I didn't try to catch every wave that came through. Especially when surfing a new spot, I have always had the habit of getting off to the side and catching the left overs until I got the feel of the place and the guys surfing there. Most always I have been accepted and respected. I have always held to the philosophy that you have to give respect to get respect. The only problems I have ever had was from a gnarly old surfer dude that thought he owned the break! lol. He turned out to be pretty cool though after we got to know him. As you said, I surf because I love it and its the "funnest" thing I have ever done. When I get out on my board, I feel like I am 16 years old again. All my worries and problems go away. Lord willing I will surf til the have to drag my old carcass to the beach!
ReplyDeleteHi Bobby, I'm with you. I just posted the comments because sometimes its just good to know what others think and experience. Jim who posted that is a professional shaper of some renown, builds beautiful boards, and if I recall correctly, is also a good surfer who has ridden with the big boys in Hawaii. I guess he may look like some old kook to the kids, but they need to learn you can't judge a book by its cover!
ReplyDeleteI'm 34 not over 50, but i will be surfing still when i'm in my 50's. I cant say that i would ever give up, apart from serious injury, or death.
ReplyDeleteMy good friend Kelvin is nearly in his 60's and he is fun to surf with. He shows us all how it should be done, and he has some great stories in the water! Hes Cornish born and bred and has seen things change, some for the worst and some for the better.
I will keep this blog bookmarked because i liked the read. If you guys want to expose your blog on my website, please let me know?
Hi Freakfish - send me your email, and I will send you an invite to be a contributor! Don't have to be over 50, just committed to keeping up the stoke no matter what the obstacles.
ReplyDeleteAt 65, two back operations( 2005 & 2006 ), open heart surgery( 2010 ), and more recently, rotator cuff surgery( 2013 ). 'Surfing has been in my life since 1963, and it will never leave.'
ReplyDeleteThe Ocean and the Waves are my Friends . . .