Petite Bonjour..............

This is my first post on here so I will use it to introduce myself. My name is Phil and I will be 58 at the end of next month, yikes, where have all those years gone? I started surfing age 19 back in Wales when your average board was a 7' 6" singlefin and wetsuits were very leaky. I am amazed at the progression of board design and technology over the years and particularly like the variety of wavecraft we use now, all manner of hybrids. The photo shows my quiver as of last summer from fins and handplane up to an 11' 6" Naish SUP.
The white board was my most recent buy, a 6' 3" 7S Cog as a quad or thruster. This board has been a revelation and proof of how board design can help us evolve as surfers and keep the stoke alive. It is packed with foam and easily floats my 83kg's. As a quad it really flies and I love it.

Over those 39 years of surfing I have chosen to travel a lot and have enjoyed many countries and cultures at the expense of a high paying career. Some great trips to New Zealand, Australia, Costa Rica, Sri Lanka and West Africa to name just a few. We are now back in France since 2002 and are currently living in Brittany having moved up from the bustle and crowds of Biarritz in 2010. We have a house overlooking the sea and I get out on the water as often as I can. In fact, I am surfing more now than I have ever done which is keeping me fit and very happy. Fitness and core strength seem to be the keys to longevity for us older surfers so let's stay healthy. That and a warm modern leakproof wetsuit!!!

I hope to add a post or two on here as the mood takes me and I feel I have something to say. Thanks for the invite Huck.................á plus.............

Time flies.

I love to surf.  It's the one thing that keeps me grounded.  My first time was in '72 on the south shores of Oahu.  My ship was returning from a western pacific cruise and we were enjoying some rest and relaxation for a few day.  That was the start of it.  When I got back to San Diego I got a board and started surfing whenever I got the chance.  Most of the time I'd surf in Imperial Beach where I lived.  Other times I'd go to northern Baja with my buddies or maybe head north toward Del Mar.  It was a lot of fun and it taught me a lot.

Several of my surf buddies were building their own boards.  That got me interested in shaping and soon I was shaping in my backyard.  It wasn't long and I was making and fixing up boards for myself and friends.  I was able to complete my studies at SDSU and finally graduated.  It was all good until the Industrial Arts programs in the San Diego school district were cut back.  That lead me to move to Florida where there was still a demand for shop teachers.  Anyways, I'm retired now and enjoying the good life in Ormond Beach.

I purchased a beach house a couple years ago and just celebrated my 60th birthday last August.  The waves here can be alright sometimes and the water never gets cold.  I still like to build boards and try out new ideas.  It still makes me excited to paddle out and share some rides with friends or by myself.  I think that surfing has kept me healthy.  I'm going to keep doing it as long as I can.

Denny Hanson

a call for contributors - share the stoke of surfing after 50

This blog currently has 5 actively contributing authors (during the past year). We don't know what happened to GrayBeard, but we hope all is well, and he will return with tales of bold adventure and great waves!

Meanwhile, we'd like to add some more contributers to the roster, and get some added imput from you stoked surfers who just don't want to quit surfing and being stoked!

You don't have to be a surfer over 50 to be an author - just someone who is determined to stay fit, enjoy the active lifestyle, and never stop being stoked no matter how old you are!

If you'd like to join our blog as an active contributor, please email Huck. Just scroll down to the list of contributing authors, click Huck, then click email under my pic. Look forward to hearing from ya'!

more Swaylocks wisdom for the aging surfers...

It's all genetics.  Genetics loads the gun, diet pulls the trigger... All your buds and associates having coronaries, becoming diabetic, even the old arthritis... High intake of sugar and fat is mostly what does the trick, and of course all the chemical flavoring agents, preservatives, conditioners, etc. I love the Michael Pollen quote, "Eat (real) food, mostly plants, not too much." That about covers the basics. If it required a factory or worse, a chem lab, to produce, it ain't food.  - Dr. Strange

Flatwater stand up paddleboarding 5 miles a day, five times a week...Core, balance, endurance, and you can drink a beer while doing it...And while my wife doesn't surf she does paddle, and that counts for a lot... - Paul Jensen

It's all mental......lose your Mojo and you are in for a long uphill battle. I'm not Fat but I'm no fitness dude....Life beats you down with money issues and health issues and whatever else....want to surf? go surf ! ...yes...go surf! GO SURF !  I've had several real life beat downs over the past few years...Get your mind in order..it's not EZ...and then go surf...no amount of anything can replace a good surf....I got my Mojo back this year...but it took alot of hard work...and there's nothing wrong with a 30-45 min session in crappy waves.....that's what get's you ready for the good stuff.   I surfed a longboard for 2 hours today....waist high....my friend did a drive by and left me a voice mail that the waves sucked today..................No.............the waves were great today!  - Stingray

Bill at Torrance - 58 years young!

bill, 58 y.o. (closer to 59)  surfing torrance beach 11/2012 on a 9' 6" epoxy board,   tri fin , ISLE surfboards - board is about 1 year old. his brother took the pics with a nikon.

Wayne Lynch, age 60

Greybeard Loses His Marbles - Part Three

Part Three – Choosing a Board  

Since most of my sources suggested starting out with a foamie – which offered the combination of greater floatation and safety – I started looking around.  Soon I discovered that Costco actually sells a 8 footer (x 22 x 18 x 14 x 3), 2+1 and a sort of a small squash tail.  Believe it or not this board – called the Wavestorm – actually sells for just $99, and at 8 ft is more a funboard.  Still some of the surf schools seem to use them.  Good enough for now I thought, but to be fair I was still heavily under the influence of Wingnut and his book (see part two).  

According to Wingnut, beginners really need a notably longer board, and specifically recommended Robert August’s What I Ride, 9’6”, and 23 x 18 x 15 x 3, 2+1, smaller square tail, with “forgiving 60/40 rails” and August’s now famous teardrop concave.  According to August this a board you can enjoy in a wide variety of conditions and is a kind of all-around, compromise board.  Wingnut felt it surfs well in Surftech, the kind of sturdy construction that tends to last, important for a retired guy.  I found all manner of fairly positive reviews, and well, there’s Wingnut’s undeniable influence.

I was sold, and I’m the kind of guy that needs to make a commitment.   And $99 is not one.  I knew that if I dropped around $1000 on a board, well THAT would be the kind of commitment and incentive that would make it hard for me to swim away from. So after many nights of web searching, I found the $1300 WIR on sale for $849 plus shipping, delivered for $999.  Best deal on the net.  Unfortunately the seller had made an error – the WIR was not available – but agreed to honor the price and promised to deliver in just another month.

I agreed.

Then one month turned into two, then three.  Meanwhile I found a used WIR for $750, but by then I’d started to consider other alternatives.  I ran across a good resource called LonboardReview.com who’d published a number of really good longboard guidelines.  In sum, they identified four basic types of longboards:

First: All Around longboards like the WIR, boards that they felt suited for beginners, and under most conditions.  Second: the High Performance longboards – thinner, faster, with speed and agility, for bigger waves but sacrificing glide and noseriding.  Not for me.  Third: the Cruisers longboards – long logs with parallel rails but with narrowed noses and very flat rocker – features which they cautioned as more challenging for beginners.  Last but not least were…

Noseriders. These longboards were noted for their wide noses, great glide, easy paddling, easy wave catching and that promoted cross-stepping and of course – noseriding.  The holy grail of surfers, and after Wingnut and the Endless Summer videos, branded in my mind as a spiritual and soulful style. Elegant and designed for a greyhair like me.  These boards are especially known for catching and performing on small waves.  Further, the website recommended:

“Surfers looking to throw all types of maneuvers with quick turns and big maneuvers are best suited with high performance boards.

Surfers looking to get up and set the board gliding along with the wave are best suited with a Cruiser.

Surfers looking to ride on the nose and surf a more “classic” style walking up to the nose and walking back to the tail to turn are best suited with a Noserider.

Surfers looking for a little bit of everything are best suited with an All-Around board”

Wave Conditions

“Smaller, slower waves in the waist high are best suited for Cruiser and Noserider longboards. Relatively bigger waves in the waist to head high range are better suited for All Around or High Performance longboards.” 

That did it.  Classic?  Board walking?  Turning from the tail?  Smaller and slower waves?  A noserider started to look pretty good to me.  I began to think that having my WIR deal fall through might have been a favor, and started researching noseriders.

Finally, I was left with three finalists:

1. The WIR, 9’6”.  Why? It’s hard to ignore Robert Wingnut Weaver or Robert August.  An all arounder with a good reputation for beginners and a board you can grow into, remained attractive and on my short list. Usually sell for around $1200 plus shipping, not cheap.
2. The Walden Magic, also 9’6”.  Why? This is Bob Walden’s personal ride, and are very, very big over here on Florida’s 700 mile east coast.  It too is an all-around board featuring Walden’s once trendsetting single into double concave, highly adjustable 2+1 fins, and rails designed for both stability and turning, go figure.  The reviews confirm this, and they are available for around $950 plus shipping.  Still though, a definite all-arounder, and a relatively high performing one at that, although it too is recommended for beginners due to those special rails.
3. Last was the Pearson Arrow CJ Nelson’s very well known 10 footer.  This board features a wide, deep and long front concave blending into a slight vee tail and a large 10 inch single fin.  This board is famous for its width (24 x 22 x 19 x 2-7/8), and relatively hard edges, but enough of a tail kick to facilitate turning.  It was widely reviewed as perhaps THE noserider, but one that could be steered from the front, middle and back (!) and that was surprisingly turnable for its length.  It was known for catching almost any bump and seemed really quite perfect for our Florida waters. About $1150.

Only the Walden is widely available in Florida, but then one day I walked into our famous Ron Jon Surf Shops and saw a lone CJ Nelson being sold for – can that be right? – for $799?  Naturally, I thought this must surely be the poly version, so I ignored it, but on my next trip to the store I lifted it and found it noticeably lighter than all the other longboards.  So I looked carefully and to my great surprise, discovered that it really was the $1050 Surftech Tufflite.  Yes there were a few minor demoing scuffs, and one tiny chip of paint, but at $850 including tax, the Pearson Arrow was mine for $350 less than its normal delivered cost of $1200.  A no brainer, and I bought it - this is the board that will make me or break me. My research is over and its now time to put up or shut up.  BTW it’s the board pictured in Part Two.  I bought a nice FCS bag, and a 10 foot calf leash, and finally was set to face the music.

Next up… Part Four - first lesson.

Greybeard Loses His Marbles: Part Two

Part Two:  Early Research and Getting "Stoked"

 

 

As mentioned I can blame this whole affair on a casual comment by my partner Susan about learning to surf – she at age 59, and me at 66.  Now being the mad researcher, it didn’t take long to determine that learning to surf on a longboard was likely my/our best bet.  So soon Mr. Amazon sent me four books:

1. Learn to Surf by James MacLaren: this short book was an easy read, and although noting that softboard or foamie might work at first, held that a real longboard was a much better choice.  Covered are the bare minimums, but little more in what is really more of an overview in a fairly small book.  Worth buying only if you are as obsessive/compulsive as I am, lol.
2. Longborder’s Start-Up by Doug Werner:  Even shorter, even smaller, dominated by large pictures and larger print, plus a long butt-kissing interview with Messrs. Steward and Ford of Stewart Surfboards (who sponsored the book).  Again the bare minimums but way barer.  Not recommended, by me anyway.
3. Surfing Illustrated by John Robinson (the author of Kayaking Illustrated).  As an advanced kayaker and surfski paddler, this book attracted me.  This 176 page book is large (not just in length), with plenty of copy and amazing hand drawn illustrations.  Very educational, and relatively complete, covering all aspects of waves, equipment, alternatives and learning. A must buy in my view, terrific.  And last…
4. Wingnut’s Complete Surfing by Robert “Wingnut” Weaver:  this is the book that really did it for me, particularly because Wingnut (and his favored Robert August longboards) are all about just one thing: longboarding for all, from 7 to 70.  He is a natural teacher, and his book gives you all the tools and hope you’ll need to do his style of smooth and soulful longboarding – exactly my objective.

He even advises buying the Endless Summer vids, plus his own Wingnut’s Art of Longboarding (volumes 1 and 3 are very educational, vol 2 is simply a travelogue.  I got them all at the thesurfnetwork.com where you can download these 40 to 60 min. vids for $9.99 and save em to disc.  Way cheaper than trying to buy em on Amazon, etc.

Now of course he favors in particular the 9’6” Robert August What I Ride, as a good all-around and forgiving board, great for beginners but with room for growth.  He has no issues with this board in Tufflite, and also recommends other shorter designs for those who wish to progress further.  A great book and vids for me and my old man goals.

These books – especially Wingnut’s and his vids – left me with a sense of hope and a growing understanding of longboard design such as rail shape, rocker, width, concave, single or multiple fins, volume et al, but more importantly made this crazy notion seem doable!  Great!  I no longer felt like a complete idiot and was then able to start visiting surfshops and asking intelligent questions.

Next up: Choosing a Board…

A few notes from the older Swaylocks guys...

Just made 63 last Sunday. The Friday before that my surgeon cleared me for surfing. Been out of the water for over a year with back issues. Spent this summer with surgery, recovery, for both back and prostate (get it checked buddy) and made it back to friendly waters the day before yesterday. Caught a few small ones at RAT w/some buds. That first good right felt just as good as the one I caught 50 years ago at the old Horseshoe Pier in Redondo. Maybe better. Of course now my ribs hurt, my thighs hurt, the tops of my knees hurt. But it's a good hurt.

Ride on,
Tom
----------------------

I didn't have hardly any issues up until I was 55, then started having problems with my back. I guess after working some 30+ years in a power plant finally took its toll. It's more of a muscular issue, basically really tight hamstrings and some arthritis in my hips, making riding my shorter fishes and funboards difficult.

I've resorted to riding my shorter longboards, an 8'0" and 8'6" and have set a goal to be able to ride them again. One thing that I've been having difficulty with are pigdogs, which are almost essential when going backside, but hopefully working with a chiroprator and a physical therapist will help me get back in better condition.

I do have a lot more compassion to others when they share their ailments now that I've had a taste of having health issues.

- foamdust
--------------------

I made 53 at the end of June. My knees and the rest of my landing gear are not what they used to be. I smoked for 36 years (a month cigarette free as of 09/01) and so my paddling ability is less than average for someone my age.

I did get some good waves as TS Debbi came through early this summer. Enjoyed the day with the missus and a couple of +50 guys I've met off and on for the past 15 or so years. All in all this summer has been a disappointment for my surfing. However, with age comes patience and the long view (hopefully).

This weekend I went with family to meet more family in the St. Augustine area. There I had the opportunity to watch my 10 y.o. niece on her sponge in tiny dribblers and am proud to say that her wave selection and ablity to work those little sections to a maximum length ride was impressive as compared to others of her age on that day.

But perhaps even more fulfilling was sitting with her 14 y.o. sister who is a 10 year survivor of an agressive brain cancer and building sand castles and playing in the sloughs. She is now able to walk with the aid of crutches and her speech has come back after much hard work (after having her motor and language skills clock set back to infancy at the age of 4).

So all told; the waves could have been much better, but I'm now at the age were I know there will be other days where the waves will suit me and am able to enjoy the periphrals when things aren't going as I'd hoped.

Cheers to all, Chris

Greybeard Loses His Marbles: An Introduction...

Hi all...

My e-name is "Greybeard" and it is one well earned.   I'm sure we all have stories to tell, and no doubt take pride in still being around to talk about it.    We've all hopefully had some wonderful days, and probably some pretty awful days as well.   When we were much younger, we really didn't identify with those white haired "oldies" who seemed so far away from us.   Of course we knew it all, and only time caused us to realize and appreciate the wonderful wisdom and truth-telling ability.

When more of your life seems behind you then ahead, I'd guess that we "oldies" have realized just how much every day of decent health means, and start thinking about what remains on our so-called "bucket" lists of people, things and experiences we'd like to do before we can't.  



So why am I here?

First and not least I am here at the invitation of Huck, an invitation I really valued, and which recognized my personal search for fulfillment.   You see, I somehow managed to become nearly 67 years old - but somehow also managed to maintain good fitness and youthful looks - except for that white (and I mean white) hair.   As they say, when your pubes start to turn, and policemen and doctors look like kids to you, well, you've arrived.    I cycle perhaps 10 miles day, kayak, bodyboard, play at skateboarding and in general still work and play hard.   And what remained on my "bucket list"?


Learning to Surf

It all started when my partner and I were hanging out once again on one of Fort Lauderdale's beaches on a windy day and again as always, were marveling at the windsurfers and board surfers.   My better half turned to me and she said "You know, I used to be a dancer, and I think I'd like to try surfing".  Frankly, I'd never thought of this, but the lightbulb went off.  "Surfing?  Well, why not?  Let's do it".   Without further detail right now, a series of events began ending up with my belief that learning to surf a graceful longboard - or at least giving it a serious effort - was something I felt was almost a spiritual adventure, and doing what may well be my last fling with my still good health.

I then did my research, narrowed things down to a Robert August What I Ride (9'6"), the Pearson Arrow C.J. Nelson (10'), and at the last moment a Walden Magic 9'6" longboard.   I posted all over the net, and received some great advice, not least from Huck, who also invited me to share my adventure here.

So here I am, with more to follow.   Huck, thanks for the invite.   This is a terrific, inspirational blog that I'm pleased to be part of.    Ciao!   And stay tuned for part two...

New Quiver addition

Here's the latest addition to my quiver; a 9'6" Jamie Murray. Jamie's a local Santa Rosa shaper, and is very good at his trade. The board was shaped locally, then glassed in Santa Cruz using Michel Junod's glasser. Check out that beautiful abstract bottom!

But seriously, this board works fantastic! Easy to catch waves, the squash tail and 2+1 set up work well on turns and cut backs. 

This is now my 'go to board.'

Mahalo, Makai

And remember, Never Give Up Doing What You love!

RIP Michael Peterson

It has been raining periodically on and off at Burleigh this afternoon. There have been a couple of solid, heavy downpours which have left the air with a heavy, cool, moist feel to it. The sudden death of Michael Peterson (MP) at Tweed Heads this morning due to a heart attack at age 59 has made this a sad place to be today.
At the time of MP’s departure, I was just a short distance down the road surfing Greenmount Point and Rainbow Bay, blithely unaware that one of the most iconic, inspirational and gifted surfers of a generation was suddenly gone for good.
To the best of my knowledge MP had not paddled out to surf a wave in decades, but his legacy to surfing was so profound it transcended much that came after it.

Rest in Peace Michael, and may you find the soft pathway that takes you out to the lush, green, point break of hollow, eternal perfection.

surfing is worth fighting for

the following is a post from my swaylocks thread "surfers over 50", by GoofyFooter

Thanks Huck for this thread, really enjoyed it, @ 59, have felt more pain than others hanging in the line up.

I began surfing in 1969 on an old Con Butterfly, wished I still had it, rode the following years on Skip Fyre special orders/customs when he shaped for G &S.My favorite was the "Frye Fish", then other shapes and sizes through the years just wished I didn't sell or trade them knowing the value today.

Anyway, long story short, later part of my 40's/early 50's professional career so close to retirement got in the way of surfing. The end of the rainbow was looking forward to retiring to have the time for surf travels.Then 6 months before retirement faced with a major opperation, Doc told me I might come out of it @ 75% to maintain my lifestyle much less surf again.

It was a tough decison, go out in a bang without it or live the remaining years missing or not able to surf ever again. I spent 8 plus hours on the table, lost the right side of my 6 pack not to mention nerve damage to other areas.

I was one sick puppy for the first year, the second year thought be able to hang on a boogie board, it was hard but helped me physically & mentally.I told my wife, can't live like this, have to get back on the board again.

The team of Doctors told me don't do this, remember you don't have any muscle on your right side to protect you. I told them I followed your recommendations to live so let me live my life on my terms.

Well, started rehab program, joined a gym 3x a week, biked 10 miles x2 a week, changed my diet to lean,mean & green. I felt I was ready except all my "sticks" were gone. Shortboards were out of the equation, so split it with a 8'4", needed for float, up it to 9'6".

That helped but being a Goofy Footer and lost of right half of my 6 pack, could not get my right foot forward. In the mean time, used Ausie pop up left foot then right foot, wasn't great but it had to do for now.

So another year, reseached all I could to re-engineer my core to pop up goofy. I used a cut out of my 9 6 on the floor to practice pop ups, crazy idea but it works.I finally got there after a total of 3 years from boogie to LB.

I hope some day to ride a "old guys" Fish like your picture. Its not easy @ our age, we really have to work @ it to stay in shape to enjoy each session just wished I didn't have triple duty but it was worth it.

made it

Huck,..

Mahalo for the invite. Glad to be in the crew.

Aloha, Randy

pushing 70 and still surfing...

I got back into surfing in '96 after a 20 year layoff. My buddy and I rented a couple boards in Hawaii to see if we could still do it. He was much better than me, which inspired me to work my ass off and improve.

We both ended up with a quiver of longboards and surfed from Alaska to Costa Rica, dragging our wives along, all the while having a ball. ALS took him 3 years ago and I promised him to ride every wave for us as long as I could.

My original goal was to surf until age 70. Turned 69 last week, so I've pushed that goal up to 80 - Billy on Swaylocks

(note: random pic, not Billy)