secret spots of oz

Hi - I’m a 59 year old kneelo from South Australia. I took up surfing in my early 30s and have become pretty passionate about it.

Twice a year for a month each time I travel about 10 hours west of Adelaide to the wild west coast of South Australia, where the desert meets the sea. North American surfers compare the environment with the Baja Peninsula.

There is a lot of secrecy surrounding the surf spots here and the locals protect them jealously. If you know where to go you can get plenty of high quality, consistent and powerful surf in conditions that would make most surfers weep with envy – often with only one or two other mates and the dolphins for company.

This year I am teaching myself to stand up for those smaller, mellower days, but I’m not planning to abandon the kneeboard any time soon.

Dok