Wednesday, March 31, 2010

secret spots of oz

Hi - I’m a 59 year old kneelo from South Australia. I took up surfing in my early 30s and have become pretty passionate about it.

Twice a year for a month each time I travel about 10 hours west of Adelaide to the wild west coast of South Australia, where the desert meets the sea. North American surfers compare the environment with the Baja Peninsula.

There is a lot of secrecy surrounding the surf spots here and the locals protect them jealously. If you know where to go you can get plenty of high quality, consistent and powerful surf in conditions that would make most surfers weep with envy – often with only one or two other mates and the dolphins for company.

This year I am teaching myself to stand up for those smaller, mellower days, but I’m not planning to abandon the kneeboard any time soon.

Dok

kneeboarder 1

Sunday, March 28, 2010

drinks from the deep well of surf wisdom!

AussieMal

Hi Guys, not only am I an over 50's surfer but I'm an over 60's surfer as well, my board of choise is a longboard but I also have a 6'4" fish & a 7'6" 70's style single fin. I just like the longboard style surfing & that suits my style. Started surfing at 14 & I think I get more out of it today than in those early days........but 1 thing......wish the crowed was like it was back then !!!!!

Soon to make another Longboard............yeah!!!!!

Nels

Like anything worthwhile surfing is about 100% physical and another 100% mental. What is "surfing" to you? Why?

Figuring out that stuff isn't really tricky. I think whatever it was that grabbed us in the first place is probably still what motivates us. If it was being "world champion" then you are royally screwed when it comes to aging, so hopefully that wasn't it for you. When it comes to equipment you will be happier if you don't think in terms of what is "proper" and what is beneath you, but rather think in terms of what equipment lets you get the most out of the experience. In 2010 pretty much anything goes. You may have to adjust the surf spots you frequent but that is good for us all anyway.

Fitness is interesting. Others pretty much already nailed that one. I started pool swimming 5-6 days a week last year and took off about 17 pounds, but at that point my hips hurt just laying on the sand. Throttled back on swimming to 3-4 days and felt better (all this with surf time too). Let life get in the way this past late fall and winter and put about 7 pounds back on, started swimming more than 2 times a month, and found I pretty much am starting over again. Can't layoff or you really slide back.

When it comes to "longboards"...you don't have to go for a heavy log. There are boards in the 8'-9' range that allow most of the benefits of a longer board while not being unweildy. And if you really don't like something, trade it in or sell it. There are all kinds of transitions in life as well as in surfing.

CAHIvet

Surfing is so much about feelings, and what we feel/want to feel can change day-to-day, even hour-to-hour. Add at least a couple of boards to your quiver--what gets you feelin' it one day won't necessarily cut it another day or at a different spot.

I'm 63 and have been surfing pretty much non-stop for 47 years, but just had an enforced lay-off of 7 months due to several cancer surgeries and the aftermath. Just prior to that, I had been feeling that the 7'5" quad egg that I was using as a reaction to the loss of quickness due to my age wasn't letting me get all that I wanted to out of the waves I was riding. I had been also using a 9'0" high-performance longboard on the smaller and/or more crowded waves, but it didn't really give much advantage since there are a whole bunch of kids and 100-lb. women riding 9'6" logs and paddling right past me.

So I made myself a couple of 6'8"s and kept the rockers at a minimum to help with entry and started having a blast with them after a short period of adjustment. Now, after the hospitalizations and treatments, with my weight down by 20 pounds, I'm a bunch weaker but still stubbornly trying to ride the shorter boards. I'm catching fewer waves, and the crowds seem more intimidating, but that zippy feeling is still in my head, and longboarding just won't cut it.

That said, yesterday was tiny but only two guys were out in front of my house, and I took the longboard out for a casual but thoroughly enjoyable session. A different feeling, but one that fit the day.

Quiver up, and just have fun.

Aloha, Chuck

Thrailkill

To paraphrase myself, ''It's far easier to put pounds on, than to take them off!'' Don't even ask how I know. You may find a board in the 7' 10'' x 21'' or 22'' range to be quite a surprise. At that size you will catch waves easily, and I have found boards in that size range (that are properly designed) are highly maneuverable. I've ridden many different size boards, and found that size to be the ''does it all'' size board for me. Just a thought for you to consider.

Monday, March 22, 2010

Old boys only.




There's a break down our way that's reserved for old boys. It wasn't necessarily planned that way. Neither is it enforced in any territorial manner. Reality is it's a pretty average wave. It does pick up what little swell might be around, but it's a bit slow, fat and crumbly. That doesn't matter though. The attraction of this break is the comradery amongst the more mature of those who delight in the ocean's joys. Paddle out there and you'll hear discussions on everything from Curren to chiropractics. There's something said for aging . . . The lack of fussing over trivial matters. The perspective of looking at life from 'the other end'. The simple pleasure of sharing a few waves with buddies.

Friday, March 19, 2010

I've recently been reflecting on what changes have taken place in the span of my time in the water. It's natural to become nostalgic for that previous time when waves were less crowded and when maybe we had more agility and youth than we now posses.

But it's a fair bet that your positive mental state won't be best served by continually dwelling on the past. We live in the here and now and you will need all your accumulated knowledge and wisdom to deal effectively with the new and ever changing dynamic that you now find in the water. So enjoy fond memories but don't over indulge, instead remain proactive and positive about change and the future.

If you've been in the water for many decades you are by now a hardened and evolved barnacle encrusted waterman who has stayed the distance when many lesser beings have long ago opted for an easier, less disciplined life. And remember what you might lack to a small degree in youth and agility, you more than make up for in wave knowledge, water wisdom and a whole lot of other hard learned skills.

Fergus McDingo

Wednesday, March 17, 2010

Rocker for Rock-n-Rollers

A discussion of rocker in surfboard construction can be framed in terms that are as simple as a caveman's drawing or as complicated as a NASA airfoil study. If you spend a little time over on Swaylocks you'll see that there are a lot of design geeks who are just itching for a chance to pull out their slide rule (or spreadsheet program) expertise to quantify the effects of various elements of surfboard construction on the ride. However, since this blog is aimed more towards the general population and since I don't even own a slide rule I'm going to address the topic in caveman terms. There's nothing wrong with eating with your hands or drinking beer.

Rocker is the amount of curve to the bottom of the board. A quick and (really) dirty way to measure the effective rocker on a board that uses a fin system is to remove the fins, lay it on a level floor and apply a ruler to measure the distance between the bottom of the nose or tail to the floor. There are more accurate ways of doing this measurement but for for the sake of discussion this cheater method will usually get you close enough.

When most surfers think of rocker they fixate on nose rocker and relate that curve to their ability to make a critical drop in a steep wave without pearling. But that's just the beginning. In conjunction with the curve of the outline of the board (aka planshape) a board's rocker will also greatly affects how loosely it will turn, how and where the board will drive through a turn, and how the board will paddle.

The other thing that many surfers don't realize is that, except for the noseriders, the amount and type of tail rocker in a board has more effect on how the board will surf for most people than the nose rocker.

Everything else being equal and in general, a board with a flatter rocker will paddle faster and with less effort than a curvier rocker. It will set into trim more easily but be harder to break out of trim and harder to turn. It will pick up a soft wave more easily but in a faster wave it will be much less forgiving with respect to making the transition from paddling to surfing - the balance point is further back and more of the volume has to get past the peak before that balance point will engage. In other words, you have to paddle further into that wave before the board will pick it up and in doing so you are reducing the length of time you have to pop up and control the tail.

The amount of rocker that will work best for you depends mostly on what you're trying to do.

What conditions do you intend to use the board in? This refers both to the speed/shape of the wave as well as the size of the wave.

Are you trying to use the board in all conditions or do you intend to use it as part of a quiver of more specialized boards?

What kinds of turns do you expect or aspire to pull off on that board in those conditions?

What's your timing like with respect to making the transition between paddling and surfing?

What's your paddling like? This refers both to your endurance and your sprint speed.

What's your skill level with respect to finding the optimum stance for your board when considering its fin setup and rail configuration?


If you generally do okay with respect to your paddling, transitions, and your position on the board relative to its fin/planshape setup then you have more latitude to match your rocker with your wave shape/speed. If you're struggling with those elements then you have less latitude, which usually means you're going to need more rocker. If you're trying to surf the board more vertically then you're going to need more rocker whereas if you're going for the longer drawn out carves you're going to want less rocker.

If you surf a longboard (either traditional or performance) OR if you are looking to surf the high performance boards modeled after what the pros use then finding a board with the optimum rocker won't be a problem. Your local McSurf Superstore is full of those.

If you're looking for one of the alternative shapes like the fishes or eggs or funboards or "wider" performance boards then it can get a little tricky because most of the contemporary surfboard blanks have a lot of rocker relative to their lengths. That's good if you take after Kelly or Taj but it's bad if you take after any of your heroes from the 1970s or 1980s.

If the latter applies to you then this is where you might be better served by skipping the shop boards altogether and hooking up with a custom shaper who is in a position to either order a blank with a custom rocker or else choose an oversized blank that has your target rocker buried somewhere in the middle.

In general and with the notable exception of the longboards, I don't think most surfers - including most older surfers - need nearly as much rocker as they've been buying. If you're over 50 and you've been surfing for a long time then you probably don't have a problem with your transitions or with pearling, and you're probably not trying to blow the tail out of the water or launch an aerial.

On the upper end I like to apply the Mark Richardson filter to surfers. If someone can outsurf what MR was doing on his twins back in 1978 then they probably have use for the curvier rockers and thinner foils. If they can't outsurf MR circa 1978 then chances are pretty good that they don't need any more rocker or any less volume than what he was using.

The prevailing wisdom among aging boomers is that there are no flattering pictures of us from the late 1970s or the early 1980s. However, there were a lot of great boards back then. This is demonstrated by the modern revival of those general designs, the application of new-skool logos and fin systems notwithstanding.

Tuesday, March 16, 2010

pump up the volume


Here are my latest two boards, based on the imput I've received about board shapes for the older surfer. One is a 7'6" hybrid, the other is a 6'7" retrofish, but thick with lots of volume. They're not glassed yet, but I'm anxious to try them out, and see if it improves my fun in the surf!

Monday, March 15, 2010

a call for authors to contribute..


OK, last check showed we have 14 wise and witty wordsmiths on board...but only two have contributed! Time to suit up and paddle out, boys. Fish or cut bait. Come on in, the water's fine! hahaha

Meantime, here's some more brain food for the ageing surfer:

Luis

I´m 50 now;

I have a 6´0" (kneeboard); a 8´0", quad, and 2 longboards, 9´2" and 9´6"

I still want a mid gun an another performance longboard;

Each time I surf is about 3 hours continuos, with no big problems, but I traine a lot, and principally I lost weight (about 30 pounds)

that was what I needed to get easily in shape in the board..

nl

I just turned 36, but will chime in anyway because I just got back in the water this last August following a 5-7 year period of pretty much not surfing. I started surfing at age 13 and went hard at it until college. At 20 years old I had radical shoulder/back surgery to remove a large tumor. I was left with a fairly full range of motion but compromised paddling strength. I had been shortboarding up to that time, but living far from the water, I was not particularly proficient. Longboards allowed me to enjoy my time out a lot more and get many more waves.

This past August I started out again on my longboards. I was in pretty poor physical condition, having worked a desk job for 10 years and getting little exercise. I was getting maybe 5-7 waves per session and missing lots of waves I paddled for that I should have gotten. But after a month of sessions twice a week, I noticed a lot of improvement.

Lucky to live closer to the surf now, and after two months of consistent sessions, I began to feel very proficient on the longboard. My wave count quadrupled, I rarely missed waves, and was having a great time. Where I had before felt exerted after a session in the surf, I now had plenty of energy. I went from a 9'8" log to a 9'2" HP longboard and felt that was still a lot of board. So I made the jump to a 6'10" Fish type board.

The first few sessions on it, I got waves, but missed too many, felt exhausted and discouraged. But after about a month I started to really have fun on it. I went to a 6'4" Fish after that and it felt microscopic to me -- for about 2-3 sessions. Then it started clicking and I got lots of waves on it.

Lately I shaped myself my a 6'4" HP quad and needed a session to get used to it as well - but the second day out in head-high surf, I had the time of my life.

So my point, like the others above, is that conditioning has to do with a lot more than age. Getting out as much as possible is critical, and if that doesn't work, exercise however you can between sessions. I do a lot of hiking now, light weights, etc to stay sharp during busy workweeks or when it's raining.

Finally, try to stay away from the real crowded breaks if you aren't surfing a lot. It's just an exercise in frustration. I spent a lot of days riding closeouts at uncrowded beachbreaks with the smaller boards to work on my paddling and timing, and heck, just getting to my feet. 20 terrible waves are a lot better for getting your reflexes dialed than waiting hours for a few waves with tons of people dropping in right and left.

After this fairly intensive program for me, I am happy to say that I'm surfing better now than I was at age 18! I want to move down a bit more in board size before hitting the plateau, but my paddling strength is miles ahead of where it was six months ago.

PS - I have tons of grey hair so I am qualified to post in this thread :-)

ol

around the same age a Keith and probably get 1/3 to 1/4 of the water as the rest of the hardcore guys here but I still prefer to ride the shortest board that I can paddle.

But you're right pretty much everyone my age is on a longboard these days so its tough competeing against them and guys 15-20 years younger also riding longboards or others young enough to be my kids or grandkids riding the same size equipment as me.

I find surfing longer boards make me lazy, slower and when it's big they can be a bear to manage paddling out. Duck diving a 6'2" when you get caught inside is a breeze compared to a 9' or 10' longboard. I can't even imaging the pounding the SUP guys take when they get caught inside a breaker.

I don't catch as many waves as I would with a bigger board to the chagrine of the old timers who think guys like me are fools but when I do get a good one I have a lot more fun and can do alot more on the wave than I can with the 4-6 extra feet of foam in front of me.

Its funny that to some surfing's has become how many waves you can catch in session. I actually have an alarm go off in my head if i think I'm catching too many in respect to those sitting in the lineup with me and I'll back off letting waves go or take my time getting back out.

Sometimes on my shortboard i might get single wave in an entire session because of the crowds. But I'll make the most of it and then just go in and go home. I can always come back later when no one else wants to surf anymore in the hot surf or windy side or on shore conditions.

When we were young and lived right on the beach we surfed all day long when ever we wanted to so surfing really didn't mean that much it was just our play time.

Sometimes you'd just paddle out and just ay down on your board to get a sun tan and get away from doing your chores on land. Didn't even bother at catching a wave or looking towards the shore where you might see your parents trying to flag you to come in to help out.

Surfing is so different now its almost the same as going to the gym for the majority who don't have the benefit of living right on the beach. I find that those who still are blessd to live on the beach and can surf any time they want treat surfing differently that most of the rest in the water.

Also grey is good

BTW

regarding

"Since getting (back) into surfing at the tender young age of 54, I'm finding being a grem again at my age is a challenge. Of course, I've got many years of surfing behind me, but after a 23 year layoff, its taking a little time to regain my sea legs, and my confidence in the lineup!"

I left surfing the fall of 74' and came back to into it in 1990 when I returned home.

Alot happened in surfing between 1974 and 1990 and I came back a white whale more at home mono skiing whistler powder than swimming in the ocean.

I started off with a custom pale pink (for the mountaineering phrase "think pink")10' Jim Turnbull Country Surfboards bonzer bottomed longboard thruster Ed Searfoss made me and in a couple years worked my way down to a painted white 6' experimental epoxy/EPS channel bottom winged fish, just like in that movie Northshore. Both boards provided me unbelievable surfing memories but it was alot of effort working my way from the 10' down to the 6' and that was 20 years ago. And in the end whether I accept it or not I was still a much better surfer/swimmer at 16-18 than I am now at 53.

But it doesn't mean I'm not having as much fun..
---------------
today's illustration is a mural I painted for a friend, hope you enjoy!

Wednesday, March 10, 2010

from the message board...

es:

I'm not quite 50, but pretty close. A little over 10 years ago I had a spinal injury that kept me out of the water for about three years. It's not like riding a bicycle, you can forget! It took quite a while to get back.

Just keep pushing. Nothing extreme, just each time you go surfing, try a little something extra. Go for that late take-off that you really don't think you'll make. You just might.

After a long wave at a point break, don't run back up the beach, but instead paddle back against the current.

After your session is just about over and your arms feel like rubber, rather than calling it a day, Paddle along the beach for twenty minutes. Nothing too hard, just push a little past what's comfortable. Personally, I think the best way to end a day of surfing is paddling along the beach as the sky turns from orange to purple.

Huck:

So...got any tips on weight loss? I lost 15 lbs. right away, doing just what you said (eat less exercise more). Now I'm at a plateau. To get back to my high school weight, I'd still need to drop another 20!

Huck:

kensurf wrote: Funny this thread comes up today. My Birthday! Im 51 now. I resorted to a longboard at about 38 or 40 yrs old. I used to kneeboard when I was a kid then at 30 got a 7' something board and worked realy hard to get a few waves in the crowds of good surfers. Then I went to an 8'6" mini log and that helped a lot. Then I ordered a 9'8" longboard and after 2 go outs my surfing was now fun!! 100% improvement ,,,, confidence 100%

Thanks Ken, that comment "worked realy hard to get a few waves in the crowds of good surfers" parallels my circumstances. It actually helped me to recognize why my board isn't working as well as I had imagined. If my favorite spots were as uncrowded as I remember them being 23 years ago, this board I have would probably be working just fine for me.

The biggest factor I didn't mention is that my usual surf spots are generally always pretty crowded. Meaning paddling into the pack of younger, aggressive surfers, to get a few waves, is pretty much mandatory. That takes a certain level of confidence, and maybe even aggression, which I don't have. I've never been a "charger", but especially now that I'm re-learning. But I hate sitting passively and not getting any waves. So I've been thinking about how best to address that with my next board.

Also, conditioning: I live several hours from the beach now. So whereas I used to get out 3-8 times a week, now I can only get out about maybe 3 times a month, often on weekends or holidays. So I can see that my board choice didn't fully address my current needs, since it was based on shapes I used to ride comfortably as a younger man in different circumstances.

doc:

I'll really be looking forward to what SammyA has to say on this. SOB has five years on me and is in far better shape and always has been, dammit. However -

I'm 55, I live in the Northeast US. I'm blue collar, which keeps me away from gyms. Injuries come more often now and the healing takes longer. And life has more things in it now.And lastly, working in the surf biz until a couple of years ago kinda soured me on surfing and surfers.

Started out on long logs...and hated it. If all I could do was longboard, I'd give it up happily. Went to paipos, then kneeboards, which required good waves, and never looked back except to gloat.

But, a few things.

It's a lot easier to stay in shape than to get back into shape. Don't be dumb, don't overdo it, as you'll hurt yourself and it takes longer to come back after 50, if in fact you do come back from an injury.


Here, we have a rather nifty sandbar kind of wave. When it's good, it's very very good and when it's bad it sucks. And summer is crowds, winter is damned cold. Spring and fall are nice.

But - the way you surf crap waves is very different from how you do the good ones. And mentally shifting gears for me just doesn't happen. Never did. The cheezy days screw you up for the good ones. So, I only go out on the challenging days, with some punch to 'em. When I can't do that, it's time to give it up. Rather than grovelling garbage days just to get in the water.

Instead, I have a 7'0" I keep for cheezy days. With a spinning reel and ya know, I like live bait. Rather than floundering and grovelling in the knee-biters, I'll go chase fish. Instead of having forgettable slop, I can have supper.

It's supposed to be fun, not work. If your ego is tied up with being the best in the water, you're gonna have to be surfing alone eventually.

And it's way too late to think about doing the pro tour. So pick your days, pick your spots, pick your waves. That is one of the really sweet things about getting a bit older: you have the skill to pick the best waves and the patience to wait for them.

Saturday, March 6, 2010

Volume - Where's the beef?

I was going to subtitle this rant "What's in your board?" after the Capital One commercials on TV but I thought that particular pop culture reference was a little too oblique. So I went for the cheap shot.

Anyways, since nobody called me out for my rant last week I thought I'd take it to the hole one more time. This week I want to share with those of you who don't already know a few little factoids about volume in board construction.

My favorite non-work related computer application is the AKU Shaper CAD program for surfboards from APS3000.com. The professional version of the program was built to work with CNC machines, but they also offer a "free download" version that I've found to be invaluable to me as a garage hack. Be warned that a few users have reported compatibility problems on their computers, but that seems to be the minority exception to the rule. I've never had a problem with it.

AKU Shaper does several things for me, but what I like most about it is that it calculates volumes for every file. In conjunction with the weight of the finished board the volume largely determines how much float you have to work with. Float isn't the magic bullet for paddling into waves but it is a crucial element.

The freebie download version of AKU Shaper comes with 4 generic templates that - if desired - can be used as the starting point for a design. Each template shows up with the various measurements and graphical representations of what those measurements look like when combined. AKU also shows the volume for each iteration, meaning that if you change a dimension AKU recalculates the volume.

The generic templates include the following:

Performance shortboard, 6-2 x 18.5 x 2-3/8 (27.26 liters)
Performance shortboard, 6-8 x 19.5 x 2-1/2 (32.27 liters)
Round Tailed Funboard, 7-6 x 21.5 x 2-3/4 (47.57 liters)
Performance Longboard, 9-0 x 22.75 x 2-3/4 (66.43 liters)

All these shapes have retail-friendly foils and rockers such as you would find on the floor at any McSurf Superstore.

Using the above info you can see that in addition to the differences in length, the volumes of these different designs are profound.

Where this information comes in handy is in enabling surfers to manage their volumes as well as their lengths when choosing a surfboard, whether it's an off-the-rack purchase or in hashing out a custom with their local shaper. Once a surfer finds a volume that results in a comfortable amount of float they can largely gerrymander their shapes and foils and thicknesses and rockers to more closely match their board with their comfort level.

For instance, at my fat-ass weight (and age) I like a volume of between 37-40 liters for many of my boards. Now normally the kids at the local McSurf Superstore would be pointing me to a 7-0 x 19.5 x 2-3/4 "shortboard" like the Channel Islands Flyer, or maybe a short funboard. And that board would be very comfortable to me in terms of float.

But I have other options, too. Depending on foils and rockers and deck profiles I can get the same volume in a 6-0 x 21 x 2-3/4 "Modfish" type shape that features a wider nose and tail (@ 12") of 14" and 16", respectively. If I wanted to go with a Simmons-style fish that uses the 22+" width with the 18" nose and 19" semi-square tail I could go even shorter, to as short as 5-0.

Now these are obviously extremes, and I daresay most people have a different idea of how much float they feel comfortable with. Maybe your personal float index is 33-35, or maybe it's 47-50, or maybe you want to stick to 60+. It's all good. The only rule I advocate is that knowledge is power. The more you know about what you need and what you want the closer you can get to picking out that magic combo and the less outside interpretation (guesswork) you need from the kid at the McSurf Superstore.


The bottom line here is that - with the exception of those people who have prior injuries - many older surfers have a lot more options with respect to board design and sizes than they realize, and most of those elements are separately negotiable.

more wisdom from the well


sf

Hi Huck, I am afflicted with a bone disease which is stealing away my active life.

Surfing and surfboards have been my life for the past twenty years. Longboards have been reserved for the smallest of days,

until now. Ride whatever makes you happiest. To hell with what anyone else thinks.

Just keep surfing.

P.S. Width makes a huge difference if you want to stay on the shorties.

------------------------------------------

jm

I'm 55 and have been surfing over 40 years. I started on an air-mat and moved on to longboards, then shortboards AND longboards (never gave those up) AND bodysurfing AND bellyboards AND airmats... shortboards are about the only thing I left behind.

Some of my favorite surfing memories are all about the glide and you just don't get that having to pump a shortboard simply to stay in the wave.

I watch plenty of people (young and old - but all on boards too short) struggle to catch waves and often not make the waves they catch.

For an older guy just getting back in to it, I can think of any number of reasons to have a longboard in the quiver.

Each to his own. Ride what you like. Ride what works for you. There's plenty of choices in equipment and lots of different kinds of waves.

-------------------------------------------

ks

Funny this thread comes up today

My Birthday! Im 51 now

I resorted to a longboard at about 38 or 40 yrs old

I used to kneeboard when I was a kid then at 30 got a 7' something board and worked realy hard to get a few waves in the crowds of good surfers

then I went to an 8'6" mini log and that helped a lot

then I ordered a 9'8" longboard and after 2 go outs my surfing was now fun!!

100% improvement ,,,, confidence 100%
-----------------------------------------
today's entry is illustrated with a dolphin painting of mine - hope you like it!

Wednesday, March 3, 2010

In the beginning...


It all started with a post on a message board. The response was quick and intense, with a lot of voices joining in. From that, came the genesis of this blog. So I thought it appropriate, at this time, to share some of the insight and advice of that initial thread.

There is more, much more, of course, and in time I'll share some of it. But I don't want to make this entry overwhelming. So here is just a taste of how this blog got launched...

Huck:

I see a lot of gray hair in the lineup these days.

Since getting (back) into surfing at the tender young age of 54, I'm finding being a grem again at my age is a challenge. Of course, I've got many years of surfing behind me, but after a 23 year layoff, its taking a little time to regain my sea legs, and my confidence in the lineup!

I'd love to know what other surfers over age 50 are doing regarding the challenges of surfing while ageing. Stuff like conditioning, board selection, etc. etc.

km:

Although I have a couple longboards in my garage I only ride them on rare occasions (knee high surf etc). I surf with a lot of guys as old as me or older, and they still ride all kinds of boards in all kinds (and sizes) of surf, including big waves. Get more exercise, surf more often, lose a few pounds of flab - unless you have bum joints or a bad back eventually you can ride pretty much what you want... maybe not pipeline or mavericks but most waves anyway. That's my 2cents worth, I'm sure someone will have another opinon...

lm:

I'm not 50, will be 40 in 2 weeks, but still like to hear what is said on threads such as these; my first thoughts are 23 years is a long time, surf surf and surf some more, surf as often as you can...aroebic activity to keep the weight in check...walk run bike swim, whatever, just keep moving and try to do it 3x a week...I consistently fail at my own advice though

let 'er rip!

LV:

I'm 58 and the longest board I have is an 8'6" California gun. My daily driver is a 6'2" fish. The best way to stay in surfing shape is to surf. I really notice a regression if I'm out only once a week. Mostly stiffness which affects popping up.

Eat less, exercise more. You can't imagine the difference losing 10 pounds will do ya. Being roughly the same weight you were in high school is good for more than your surfing...

That said, surfing is about exercising and having fun. If it takes a longboard to work for you, ride a longboard.

nj:

Imagine if you lived on the East Coast, where it can be flat for weeks at a time, and swells usually only last a day or two. On top of that, imagine you're looking at 50 years old just around the corner!

I'm 46, and started a regular exercise regimen about 8 years ago just to maintain my level of surfing. I stuck with it, and seem to be doing OK. I ride all kinds of boards, and get plenty of waves on them. So... add a longboard to your quiver, for sure... just because they're fun! But commit yourself to improving your conditioning, and you'll be happier, healther, and stay in the game longer. That's my plan. How long, who knows...

gd:

I'm coming up on 53 and both of my daily drivers are under 6ft, but then again I pack a lot of volume into my boards. The advantage to shorter boards is that you can more readily duck dive them than the same volume in a longer length - more leverage. The disadvantage is that a shorter board requires a better eye , better positioning, and better timing; there's less room for error. Fortunately, the physical decline that comes with getting older doesn't have that much effect on your wave judgement or timing.

I think that might be where you're at right now - after a long hiatus you haven't yet recovered or refined your wave judgement and timing. A longer length might help you compensate for that. I would also think that you might find paddling a lighter board a fair bit easier, too. On your board if you routinely have to make more than 5-8 strokes to get into a wave the weight of that board might be cutting into your wave count.

As for boards, I use different boards for different conditions and I pay a lot of attention to rockers (in particular) in relation to the waves I'm anticipating. I almost always bring two boards with me so as to have a choice. I don't always get it right but I almost never get it completely wrong. I usually aim for "just barely enough".

Beyond that I think that once you identify what you need for float the rest comes down to paddling technique and using your more limited amounts of energy wisely. For paddling it's all about the long smooth stroke and resisting the urge to short stroke. For energy conservation it's about being smart.

I don't do a lot of paddling for position, I usually don't hang out in the middle of the baitball and I don't paddle for a wave unless I think I have a decent shot at getting it. When I'm on I get about the same number of waves that I would get on a bigger board. I could probably score more waves more consistently on bigger boards but at this point I don't consider more to be better than better. I make up for my declining rate of waves-per-hour by staying out. My average session is about 2 hours. Because of that I watch the tides and time my sessions accordingly.

I think the bottom line is that my approach to surfing is a lot more mentally involved than it was when I was younger.
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I illustrated this entry with a picture of my jumping dolphins painting. Hope you enjoy it!