RIP Michael Peterson

It has been raining periodically on and off at Burleigh this afternoon. There have been a couple of solid, heavy downpours which have left the air with a heavy, cool, moist feel to it. The sudden death of Michael Peterson (MP) at Tweed Heads this morning due to a heart attack at age 59 has made this a sad place to be today.
At the time of MP’s departure, I was just a short distance down the road surfing Greenmount Point and Rainbow Bay, blithely unaware that one of the most iconic, inspirational and gifted surfers of a generation was suddenly gone for good.
To the best of my knowledge MP had not paddled out to surf a wave in decades, but his legacy to surfing was so profound it transcended much that came after it.

Rest in Peace Michael, and may you find the soft pathway that takes you out to the lush, green, point break of hollow, eternal perfection.

surfing is worth fighting for

the following is a post from my swaylocks thread "surfers over 50", by GoofyFooter

Thanks Huck for this thread, really enjoyed it, @ 59, have felt more pain than others hanging in the line up.

I began surfing in 1969 on an old Con Butterfly, wished I still had it, rode the following years on Skip Fyre special orders/customs when he shaped for G &S.My favorite was the "Frye Fish", then other shapes and sizes through the years just wished I didn't sell or trade them knowing the value today.

Anyway, long story short, later part of my 40's/early 50's professional career so close to retirement got in the way of surfing. The end of the rainbow was looking forward to retiring to have the time for surf travels.Then 6 months before retirement faced with a major opperation, Doc told me I might come out of it @ 75% to maintain my lifestyle much less surf again.

It was a tough decison, go out in a bang without it or live the remaining years missing or not able to surf ever again. I spent 8 plus hours on the table, lost the right side of my 6 pack not to mention nerve damage to other areas.

I was one sick puppy for the first year, the second year thought be able to hang on a boogie board, it was hard but helped me physically & mentally.I told my wife, can't live like this, have to get back on the board again.

The team of Doctors told me don't do this, remember you don't have any muscle on your right side to protect you. I told them I followed your recommendations to live so let me live my life on my terms.

Well, started rehab program, joined a gym 3x a week, biked 10 miles x2 a week, changed my diet to lean,mean & green. I felt I was ready except all my "sticks" were gone. Shortboards were out of the equation, so split it with a 8'4", needed for float, up it to 9'6".

That helped but being a Goofy Footer and lost of right half of my 6 pack, could not get my right foot forward. In the mean time, used Ausie pop up left foot then right foot, wasn't great but it had to do for now.

So another year, reseached all I could to re-engineer my core to pop up goofy. I used a cut out of my 9 6 on the floor to practice pop ups, crazy idea but it works.I finally got there after a total of 3 years from boogie to LB.

I hope some day to ride a "old guys" Fish like your picture. Its not easy @ our age, we really have to work @ it to stay in shape to enjoy each session just wished I didn't have triple duty but it was worth it.

made it

Huck,..

Mahalo for the invite. Glad to be in the crew.

Aloha, Randy

pushing 70 and still surfing...

I got back into surfing in '96 after a 20 year layoff. My buddy and I rented a couple boards in Hawaii to see if we could still do it. He was much better than me, which inspired me to work my ass off and improve.

We both ended up with a quiver of longboards and surfed from Alaska to Costa Rica, dragging our wives along, all the while having a ball. ALS took him 3 years ago and I promised him to ride every wave for us as long as I could.

My original goal was to surf until age 70. Turned 69 last week, so I've pushed that goal up to 80 - Billy on Swaylocks

(note: random pic, not Billy)

Never too old to be a Grommet!

Here's an entry for your over 50 surfing blog.

My husband and I have been married for 35 years. Both he and I have lived in California beach towns -- on and off -- both before and after we met -- but we never surfed! We loved the atmosphere in these places, but didn't realize it was surfing which made them mellow and fun. (Especially weird for him, as he was raised in California and was always athletic).

Anyway, we are both in our 60s and retired and we found a Mexican beach town to live in. We are surfing for the first time and we adore it - even though we both suck, of course. He has chronic neck and back pain, I have lower back pain, arthitis in my knees, and a rotator cuff injury, but we don't care. We are so so happy in the waves. Haven't laughed this much in years and years. We love the ocean, the sand, the surfers and the scene. Everyone seems so happy on the beach. It is truly a relaxing and joyful experience.

We body board for 2 hours and it takes us 2 days to recover. We don't care, we are having a blast. It's almost like we are young again, and living in Santa Cruz in the 70s. Hey, there's always Tylenol. My husband is going to be trying out a longboard in a few days. I'm still on the body board, building up my strength. Surfing is a beautiful beautiful sport and lifestyle.

Thanks for the blog. We'll be following it.

The VVA Veteran

The VVA Veteran: or Member of USARSUPTHAI at Camp Friendship, Korat, Thailand in 1970.....I am looking to find the guys I served with in Thailand at Camp Friendship in Korat from Jan. 1970 to Aug. 1970. The names I remember and we all played golf together in Thailand were Sgt. Bob Campbell, Bill Able, Denny Meinert, Lt. Brooks Payne who was head of "special services" at Camp Friendship during this time. There was another guy named Gary Cole I would really love to get in touch with that was stationed there with me and he was the head lifeguard at the officers swimming pool at Camp Friendship.

Thanks,

Robert V. Parker
Wilmington, NC
910-297-5341

Revival!

After 34 years I was just about to give up surfing. I really wasn't enjoying it. I live where the waves are marginal and infrequent. It gets cold in winter and I'm feeling old and tired. Compounding this hole I was in were back and shoulder injuries. . . . Really sad to think of leaving it all behind as I love the ocean as it's been a significant part of my life.

I recently took a trip up the east coast (of Oz). Not to surf but just a time of solace. Thank goodness I caught up with an old friend (old as in years, not length of acquaintance. Well to be fair he's only in his fifties!). He's loving surfing as much as ever. Being retired and having lots of warm water waves on hand helps! But he gave me a couple of words of wisdom:

1. Consider looking outside the box when choosing equipment.
2. Don't have too high expectations when you paddle out into the line-up. Even if it means getting no waves . . . just enjoy the moment in the ocean.

Well I've exercised those pointers and my surfing has been revived. I've bought the longest board I've ever owned. An 8' mal (see pic). And it's great. It paddles well and once I became accustomed to all the extra fibreglass it maneuvers well. Secondly, I truly am grateful for every opportunity I get to paddle out. It's weird — It kind of takes the pressure off of having to get waves. And guess what? They usually end up coming my way anyway. Sure I don't surf the heavier spots I might have years ago. But who really cares. The ocean is a wonderful gift and I feel blessed to be able to taste it's goodness.

Hopefully this renewed attitude will keep me going for a few more years!

Swaylocks is down!

Until they get it back up - everyone is welcome to our new forum - its for everyone who cares to discuss the designing, building, and riding of surfboards. Come join us if you'd like.
Surfers Surfing Surfboards (forum)

old guy at Steamer's Lane on flickr

ageing surfers weigh in on swaylocks...

http://www2.swaylocks.com/forums/are-you-happy-where-your-surfing

I just turned 42 and am in my 30th year of surfing. I am not happy at all with where my surfing is. I am surfing as good as 20 years ago thanks to advances in the sport and equipment but the big problem is paddling. 30 years of wear and tear from surfing and my neck, back and now my right shoulder are all having problems. Will likely need rotator cuff surgery sometime soon. Getting out, duck-diving and paddling back out are all a problem. Surfing is a cake walk though. - mako224
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I'm 62 and just glad I can still surf at all anymore.

Have neither the reflexes nor the athleticism I once did, but am otherwise in pretty decent shape and still having as much fun as ever. Still ride overhead waves when I get the chance.

Surfing is the one thread of continuity which has run through my entire life's history. Feel like a kid again whenever I go in the water: it's what keeps my batteries charged and keeps me from getting depressed about being on the (hopefully) long downslope toward the big dirt nap.

My two modes of existance are pretty much "surfing" and "waiting to surf some more" (though there are other things that I like to do "while I'm waiting"). Not exactly a philosophy that's likely to bring fame and fortune. None the less, I'm content.

...I've found that here in my sixth decade on the planet (fifth in the water), I need to cross-train religiously and eat right in order to stay fit and toned enough to surf at what I consider to be a "satisfactory" level. Regular bicycling, work-outs on my Total Gym® plus going easy on sweets, alcohol and fatty foods and getting enough sleep makes a world of difference. Old bodies aren't as forgiving of abuse and neglect as young ones so maintenance and up-keep become a more mandatory chore. The pay-off can be more energy and less pain per session.

If you have serious medical issues that interfere with your surfing, try to get them addressed with chiropracty, PT or surgery. I have orthotic lifts in my shoes and have had bones spurs ground out of one shoulder and an unguinal hernia repaired. A partially prolapsed L-5 has me looking for mechanical assistance (dolly, come-along, jack, ramps, hoist, etc.) any time something heavy needs lifting or moving. Maintaining good muscle tone and reasonable body weight also helps take the strain off a sketchy lower back.

Partly depends on how bad you want to keep surfing and whether you're willing to give up other things and put in extra work to make it happen. It's all about priorities.

The day will come when for each of us when we're simply be too old and broke down to paddle out anymore. Til then, just do all you can to push that day off into the future. - DropkneesSL
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The magic numbers are three (inches thick) and twenty three (inches wide). I don't understand why but you will see those numbers over and over. Everything from a Mini Simmons to an 8' egg to a long board. Stay close to those numbers.....Get back on a long board....get back to surfing 3+ times a week. Surfing is the only thing that will improve your surfing.

I am not a fitness junkey. My wife has health issues. The best exercise for my wife is walking. It's good for me too. We walk 30-40 min, 3-4 times a week...easy...good for the heart...good for the soul. Keep moving....

am I happy with my surfing???....ha ha ....I'm happy to be able to surf...... - Stingray
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I'm 56 and I guess I'd have to say I could be happier where my surfing is, but am still glad I can participate in it. I recently started to have issues concerning my abilities that previously were second nature to me.

In the last year or so, stiffness and pain with my lower back have made popping up to my feet properly quite difficult. I've ended up having very awkward take offs, missing waves and difficulty crouching. I started to do stretches and took a yoga class to help loosen up and strengthen my core and back. So far it's been a slow progression toward getting back to feeling a 100%, but I'll keep trying to get back there.

One bright spot in all the recent darkness was riding a longboard I made some 12 yrs. ago that I had relegated to my mothball fleet. At one point in time it was my main ride, but was set aside as I made other boards. Anyway I pulled it off the rack, dusted it off and for some reason that I still can't explain, slapped on one of Cheyne Horan's Star fins that I had laying around for years and still had'nt tried.

Up until I caught the first wave using that fin, I was doubting its merits. The first wave nullified any of my doubts as the board turned just as good, as with any other fin I have used on it. That was 4 or 5 sessions ago and I have yet to take it off. I really can't say its light years better or worse than any other fin I've used on that board, but my keeping it on is a statement in itself. It does make the board feel like it noserides better though, in the sense that the board does'nt feel like it's gonna pearl as much when the wave starts to flatten out.

My advice ...try not to get caught up in what other people are riding. You probably know what works for you more than anybody. Stay stoked! - foamdust
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I am fortunate enough to have built my life around surfing. Self employed and living at the beach.

I'll be 54 next month and have been surfing since I was 7. I rode all the surf toys (except kites and hydrofoils) at one time or another.

Service related neck problems forced me to give up overarm paddling about 10 years ago and I've been strictly Kipapa (prone) ever since. This has not diminished my stoke at all. I surf as often as the conditions and my wracked up ol' body will allow. Typically 4 days out of 7. I'd like to have my 17 year old body back but that ain't gonna happen so I stretch every day, surf as often as I can, walk and bike a lot and swim when the surf is way down..

First and Foremost,

Surfing is all about having FUN. - unclegrumpy