A blog for those who love wood surfboards, modern and antique, whether hollow, chambered, composite, or just adding wood details to a standard foam blank.
Monday, March 17, 2014
Aloha from South San Diego
Just got done with the morning session...decent size sets, overhead plus, also lots of paddling as there is a bit of current...for those that do not know me, I am Ron, I am retired and live in Imperial Beach ,two blocks from the ocean..I have a side rack for my bicycle and it is a 3 minute ride to my favorite break....this is my third winter here in IB and it has been really good..I have developed the habit of counting my waves everyday and filling out a wave log daily..in 2013, I rode 5800 waves.....my friend dubbed me The Count Of IB...I hope to get into discussions with fellow older surfers who still have the stoke on physical and mental issues we encounter on a daily basis....thanks for reading, I'll check back soon, have a great day folks....Stoked Ron
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Ron,
ReplyDeleteAlthough I like to see stories like yours here, and meaning no disrespect, I question your 'wave count.' And if my math's correct, you would have to have ridden approximately16 waves each and every day in 2013?
Ha, if you knew me you would never question my count, I promise , it is accurate..I count them everyday and enter them into a surf log...so far, this year I have 1186..surfing is my passion and I would have no reason to exaggerate the count by even one wave.....
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DeleteCorrection:
DeleteSince I turned 50, If I 'claimed' to have ridden 5800 waves in one year, which equals = 16 waves per day x 16 years = 9,280,000 waves ridden. And that ONLY if I rode 16 waves each and every day of the year.
Imperial Beach is a great place. I lived and surfed there from '72 - '89. The north side of the pier, boco rios and the river mouth were some of my favorite spots. Lots of good people and surfers there. Yeah, I miss it.
ReplyDeleteHi Dennis, yes I have much love for this little old surf town..I just surfed the River the last 2 days, yesterday with one friend, today, just me ...migrating from the East Coast, I am blown away by the amount of swells that roll in here
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