Saturday, December 29, 2012

Petite Bonjour..............


This is my first post on here so I will use it to introduce myself. My name is Phil and I will be 58 at the end of next month, yikes, where have all those years gone? I started surfing age 19 back in Wales when your average board was a 7' 6" singlefin and wetsuits were very leaky. I am amazed at the progression of board design and technology over the years and particularly like the variety of wavecraft we use now, all manner of hybrids. The photo shows my quiver as of last summer from fins and handplane up to an 11' 6" Naish SUP.
The white board was my most recent buy, a 6' 3" 7S Cog as a quad or thruster. This board has been a revelation and proof of how board design can help us evolve as surfers and keep the stoke alive. It is packed with foam and easily floats my 83kg's. As a quad it really flies and I love it.

Over those 39 years of surfing I have chosen to travel a lot and have enjoyed many countries and cultures at the expense of a high paying career. Some great trips to New Zealand, Australia, Costa Rica, Sri Lanka and West Africa to name just a few. We are now back in France since 2002 and are currently living in Brittany having moved up from the bustle and crowds of Biarritz in 2010. We have a house overlooking the sea and I get out on the water as often as I can. In fact, I am surfing more now than I have ever done which is keeping me fit and very happy. Fitness and core strength seem to be the keys to longevity for us older surfers so let's stay healthy. That and a warm modern leakproof wetsuit!!!

I hope to add a post or two on here as the mood takes me and I feel I have something to say. Thanks for the invite Huck.................á plus.............

Tuesday, December 25, 2012

Time flies.






I love to surf.  It's the one thing that keeps me grounded.  My first time was in '72 on the south shores of Oahu.  My ship was returning from a western pacific cruise and we were enjoying some rest and relaxation for a few day.  That was the start of it.  When I got back to San Diego I got a board and started surfing whenever I got the chance.  Most of the time I'd surf in Imperial Beach where I lived.  Other times I'd go to northern Baja with my buddies or maybe head north toward Del Mar.  It was a lot of fun and it taught me a lot.

Several of my surf buddies were building their own boards.  That got me interested in shaping and soon I was shaping in my backyard.  It wasn't long and I was making and fixing up boards for myself and friends.  I was able to complete my studies at SDSU and finally graduated.  It was all good until the Industrial Arts programs in the San Diego school district were cut back.  That lead me to move to Florida where there was still a demand for shop teachers.  Anyways, I'm retired now and enjoying the good life in Ormond Beach.

I purchased a beach house a couple years ago and just celebrated my 60th birthday last August.  The waves here can be alright sometimes and the water never gets cold.  I still like to build boards and try out new ideas.  It still makes me excited to paddle out and share some rides with friends or by myself.  I think that surfing has kept me healthy.  I'm going to keep doing it as long as I can.

Denny Hanson

Tuesday, December 18, 2012

a call for contributors - share the stoke of surfing after 50



This blog currently has 5 actively contributing authors (during the past year). We don't know what happened to GrayBeard, but we hope all is well, and he will return with tales of bold adventure and great waves!

Meanwhile, we'd like to add some more contributers to the roster, and get some added imput from you stoked surfers who just don't want to quit surfing and being stoked!

You don't have to be a surfer over 50 to be an author - just someone who is determined to stay fit, enjoy the active lifestyle, and never stop being stoked no matter how old you are!

If you'd like to join our blog as an active contributor, please email Huck. Just scroll down to the list of contributing authors, click Huck, then click email under my pic. Look forward to hearing from ya'!