Hello, there! This spring in Point Loma - Ocean Beach we've had a lot of windswell and chop. For these conditions, I've mostly been riding two Pendoflex fishes that Steve made me—a 6'7" high aspect twin fin Fish, Papa Garribaldi and a 6'2" Swallowtail quad named Frisky—and my surf mat. This is my 60th year on this Earth and Easter 2011 marked my 47th surfing anniversary for surfing standing on a board. (I have enjoyed the ocean body-surfing and ridding mats and bellyboards as a youngster). Steve and I are getting up there in age and definitely feel it sometimes, but we keep a positive attitude and we keep moving. We take care of ourselves, eat healthy and swim to keep in shape and to support our surfing. We also love riding our 4th Gear flyers from Paul Gross, they are super fun and a work out, too. We are stoked and are grateful for each day. Steve and I are dedicated to our work and arts but the ocean helps us keep a healthy balance. Steve has a quip he likes to say with a chuckle, after a work day and an afternoon surf "Well, that's one that the couch didn't get, hahaha!"
This last week there were small clean waves, so I decided to ride a special longer board, the beautiful 7'7 Skip Frye Fish Simmons (LT Peliglide) that Skipper very kindly shared with me in 2006, after my hip replacement. This board is Skip's personal board and is named after Ladainian Tomlinson, as Skip is a big fan of the Chargers. So, I took LT for a paddle cruise and glide session, Monday through Thursday mornings and had so much fun. My favorite wave was about chest high with some lined up sections, in which a squadron of pelicans flew right over me, also gliding on the wave! The high aspect Geppie twins on the Fish Simmons allow you to trim a very high line (and change direction quickly and smoothly). It's also an amazing feeling to experience Skip's fast rail. It's been awhile since I've ridden a board over 6'7" and the glide felt wonderful. Thank you Skipper!
On Thursday the waves were more consistent and a little bigger and I could have ridden one of my smaller boards. Still, LT and I shared the longest rides on the small perfect waves, so grateful! Our friend Marcos was also out and we had fun "splitting the peak" when the sets offered only one good wave. The Thursday afternoon forecast predicted a little more surf for Friday, so I decided to dedicate the week to Skip's boards and take out the beautiful 6'8" Fish that he shaped me a few years ago. In 2007 Skipper shaped a magic 6'8" fish with special rocker and template for my favorite spots. Her name Mama Garibaldi came when the Garribaldi fish were drawn to her deep golden color. I drew a Garribaldi in a kelp barrel on the deck and an open-winged pelican above the Skipper wings. Friday morning brought a little bit more windswell and the same small southwest. Mama Garribaldi and I paddled and surfed from reef to reef and caught some fun sliders, and there were even a couple of sections where we got to boogie! As with every day this week, I paddled back so stoked to be out on the ocean enjoying the gift of a reef-to-reef paddle and the fun waves. Skipper thank you, your boards are treasures.
We are grateful to be surfing, and every wave is a gift. Take care and remember the love. God bless you.
Love and Aloha, Cher and Steve
5 years ago, my wife and I started traveling to Peru. The 1st being in July, which is winter time. We stayed in a district named Mira Flores. I was standing On the balcony 10 floors up Looking out at the ocean and saw specs of what I realized were surfers. I grew up in San Diego very poor and always wanted to surf, but never got the opportunity. I told my wife that when we came back in January that I was going to take lessons. Fast forward 6 months Febuary and were back for a month of summer. I went to down the 2000 stairs to Makaja beach. There are surf schools lined up down the beach I stopped at Pukana Surf School and talked to Carlos Amaya. He ask my wife in Spanish if should bring me back dead or alive. I told him that I understood everything he said. Carlos was joking. I went surfing that day and got up on a longboard my third attempt. I continued to take lessons the next week. I am a believer, and the first time I went out by myself I felt closer to God than any other time of my life. I was hooked. I live in Katy Texas, and the only place close enough to drive is Surfside or Galveston. We go to Peru 1 time a year and I would go back and not be any better on my 9ft Fry ultra light. I made a decision this May not to miss 1 week until December. I have been driving the 180 mile round trip before 5am and wait for the sun to come up, surf for 2 hours and then drive back to Katy to run my auto shop. My surfing has improved 1000 percent. Surfing has motivated me to stretch and for about 30 minutes a day. I work out everyday but not when I surf. I started the Surfing when I was 52 years old, intend to surf until I take my last breath. Feb 1st we are back in Lima and this time I am going to Chicama, has long left 4kilometers. Then up to Mancora. My wife has even started surfing at 49 years old. All I can is YOU Only have 1 life and it's short. I live Everyday like it could be last. I am known at church by some that know my testimony as the longshot.
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