Never too old to be a Grommet!

Here's an entry for your over 50 surfing blog.

My husband and I have been married for 35 years. Both he and I have lived in California beach towns -- on and off -- both before and after we met -- but we never surfed! We loved the atmosphere in these places, but didn't realize it was surfing which made them mellow and fun. (Especially weird for him, as he was raised in California and was always athletic).

Anyway, we are both in our 60s and retired and we found a Mexican beach town to live in. We are surfing for the first time and we adore it - even though we both suck, of course. He has chronic neck and back pain, I have lower back pain, arthitis in my knees, and a rotator cuff injury, but we don't care. We are so so happy in the waves. Haven't laughed this much in years and years. We love the ocean, the sand, the surfers and the scene. Everyone seems so happy on the beach. It is truly a relaxing and joyful experience.

We body board for 2 hours and it takes us 2 days to recover. We don't care, we are having a blast. It's almost like we are young again, and living in Santa Cruz in the 70s. Hey, there's always Tylenol. My husband is going to be trying out a longboard in a few days. I'm still on the body board, building up my strength. Surfing is a beautiful beautiful sport and lifestyle.

Thanks for the blog. We'll be following it.

The VVA Veteran

The VVA Veteran: or Member of USARSUPTHAI at Camp Friendship, Korat, Thailand in 1970.....I am looking to find the guys I served with in Thailand at Camp Friendship in Korat from Jan. 1970 to Aug. 1970. The names I remember and we all played golf together in Thailand were Sgt. Bob Campbell, Bill Able, Denny Meinert, Lt. Brooks Payne who was head of "special services" at Camp Friendship during this time. There was another guy named Gary Cole I would really love to get in touch with that was stationed there with me and he was the head lifeguard at the officers swimming pool at Camp Friendship.

Thanks,

Robert V. Parker
Wilmington, NC
910-297-5341

Revival!

After 34 years I was just about to give up surfing. I really wasn't enjoying it. I live where the waves are marginal and infrequent. It gets cold in winter and I'm feeling old and tired. Compounding this hole I was in were back and shoulder injuries. . . . Really sad to think of leaving it all behind as I love the ocean as it's been a significant part of my life.

I recently took a trip up the east coast (of Oz). Not to surf but just a time of solace. Thank goodness I caught up with an old friend (old as in years, not length of acquaintance. Well to be fair he's only in his fifties!). He's loving surfing as much as ever. Being retired and having lots of warm water waves on hand helps! But he gave me a couple of words of wisdom:

1. Consider looking outside the box when choosing equipment.
2. Don't have too high expectations when you paddle out into the line-up. Even if it means getting no waves . . . just enjoy the moment in the ocean.

Well I've exercised those pointers and my surfing has been revived. I've bought the longest board I've ever owned. An 8' mal (see pic). And it's great. It paddles well and once I became accustomed to all the extra fibreglass it maneuvers well. Secondly, I truly am grateful for every opportunity I get to paddle out. It's weird — It kind of takes the pressure off of having to get waves. And guess what? They usually end up coming my way anyway. Sure I don't surf the heavier spots I might have years ago. But who really cares. The ocean is a wonderful gift and I feel blessed to be able to taste it's goodness.

Hopefully this renewed attitude will keep me going for a few more years!

Swaylocks is down!

Until they get it back up - everyone is welcome to our new forum - its for everyone who cares to discuss the designing, building, and riding of surfboards. Come join us if you'd like.
Surfers Surfing Surfboards (forum)

old guy at Steamer's Lane on flickr

ageing surfers weigh in on swaylocks...

http://www2.swaylocks.com/forums/are-you-happy-where-your-surfing

I just turned 42 and am in my 30th year of surfing. I am not happy at all with where my surfing is. I am surfing as good as 20 years ago thanks to advances in the sport and equipment but the big problem is paddling. 30 years of wear and tear from surfing and my neck, back and now my right shoulder are all having problems. Will likely need rotator cuff surgery sometime soon. Getting out, duck-diving and paddling back out are all a problem. Surfing is a cake walk though. - mako224
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I'm 62 and just glad I can still surf at all anymore.

Have neither the reflexes nor the athleticism I once did, but am otherwise in pretty decent shape and still having as much fun as ever. Still ride overhead waves when I get the chance.

Surfing is the one thread of continuity which has run through my entire life's history. Feel like a kid again whenever I go in the water: it's what keeps my batteries charged and keeps me from getting depressed about being on the (hopefully) long downslope toward the big dirt nap.

My two modes of existance are pretty much "surfing" and "waiting to surf some more" (though there are other things that I like to do "while I'm waiting"). Not exactly a philosophy that's likely to bring fame and fortune. None the less, I'm content.

...I've found that here in my sixth decade on the planet (fifth in the water), I need to cross-train religiously and eat right in order to stay fit and toned enough to surf at what I consider to be a "satisfactory" level. Regular bicycling, work-outs on my Total Gym® plus going easy on sweets, alcohol and fatty foods and getting enough sleep makes a world of difference. Old bodies aren't as forgiving of abuse and neglect as young ones so maintenance and up-keep become a more mandatory chore. The pay-off can be more energy and less pain per session.

If you have serious medical issues that interfere with your surfing, try to get them addressed with chiropracty, PT or surgery. I have orthotic lifts in my shoes and have had bones spurs ground out of one shoulder and an unguinal hernia repaired. A partially prolapsed L-5 has me looking for mechanical assistance (dolly, come-along, jack, ramps, hoist, etc.) any time something heavy needs lifting or moving. Maintaining good muscle tone and reasonable body weight also helps take the strain off a sketchy lower back.

Partly depends on how bad you want to keep surfing and whether you're willing to give up other things and put in extra work to make it happen. It's all about priorities.

The day will come when for each of us when we're simply be too old and broke down to paddle out anymore. Til then, just do all you can to push that day off into the future. - DropkneesSL
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The magic numbers are three (inches thick) and twenty three (inches wide). I don't understand why but you will see those numbers over and over. Everything from a Mini Simmons to an 8' egg to a long board. Stay close to those numbers.....Get back on a long board....get back to surfing 3+ times a week. Surfing is the only thing that will improve your surfing.

I am not a fitness junkey. My wife has health issues. The best exercise for my wife is walking. It's good for me too. We walk 30-40 min, 3-4 times a week...easy...good for the heart...good for the soul. Keep moving....

am I happy with my surfing???....ha ha ....I'm happy to be able to surf...... - Stingray
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I'm 56 and I guess I'd have to say I could be happier where my surfing is, but am still glad I can participate in it. I recently started to have issues concerning my abilities that previously were second nature to me.

In the last year or so, stiffness and pain with my lower back have made popping up to my feet properly quite difficult. I've ended up having very awkward take offs, missing waves and difficulty crouching. I started to do stretches and took a yoga class to help loosen up and strengthen my core and back. So far it's been a slow progression toward getting back to feeling a 100%, but I'll keep trying to get back there.

One bright spot in all the recent darkness was riding a longboard I made some 12 yrs. ago that I had relegated to my mothball fleet. At one point in time it was my main ride, but was set aside as I made other boards. Anyway I pulled it off the rack, dusted it off and for some reason that I still can't explain, slapped on one of Cheyne Horan's Star fins that I had laying around for years and still had'nt tried.

Up until I caught the first wave using that fin, I was doubting its merits. The first wave nullified any of my doubts as the board turned just as good, as with any other fin I have used on it. That was 4 or 5 sessions ago and I have yet to take it off. I really can't say its light years better or worse than any other fin I've used on that board, but my keeping it on is a statement in itself. It does make the board feel like it noserides better though, in the sense that the board does'nt feel like it's gonna pearl as much when the wave starts to flatten out.

My advice ...try not to get caught up in what other people are riding. You probably know what works for you more than anybody. Stay stoked! - foamdust
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I am fortunate enough to have built my life around surfing. Self employed and living at the beach.

I'll be 54 next month and have been surfing since I was 7. I rode all the surf toys (except kites and hydrofoils) at one time or another.

Service related neck problems forced me to give up overarm paddling about 10 years ago and I've been strictly Kipapa (prone) ever since. This has not diminished my stoke at all. I surf as often as the conditions and my wracked up ol' body will allow. Typically 4 days out of 7. I'd like to have my 17 year old body back but that ain't gonna happen so I stretch every day, surf as often as I can, walk and bike a lot and swim when the surf is way down..

First and Foremost,

Surfing is all about having FUN. - unclegrumpy

Played Hookey & Went to the Beach on a Tuesday in August...

Hey Surf Monkeys - Its Your Blog

Have a story to share about keeping the stoke after age 50? Its hard to do, we know, so we all love hearing how you do it! Send your story to doghousereilley@yahoo.com, and we'll put it on the blog.

Made for Trade

I made a wood gun, 9' 6", to trade with another builder. He made a 7' 6" gun for me. Two happy campers!

howz it?

Happy to find your blog! I'm turning 50 next year! I learned to surf in Hawaii some years ago, but just getting back into it. I live in Wales on The Isle of Anglesey...

We have a couple spots here that could be called heavy, but mostly we pray for rideable surf on a daily basis. The winter gives us our best surf and our harshest conditions (last year surf two days after Christmas with a foot of snow and icicles surrounding Cable Bay). Water temperatures are in the mid to low 50s in the winter.

We are presently into the I'm-just-gonna-get-a-paddle-in time of year but when I'm not surfing I'm swimming as I try to keep the encroaching middle-age fat wrap at bay.

Hope all is well in your neck of the beaches. Would love to contribute to your blog from time to time.

Cheers, Greg

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(Greg has been sent an invite to join the blog as a contributor)

A week long surf story, riding the Fryes

Hello, there! This spring in Point Loma - Ocean Beach we've had a lot of windswell and chop. For these conditions, I've mostly been riding two Pendoflex fishes that Steve made me—a 6'7" high aspect twin fin Fish, Papa Garribaldi and a 6'2" Swallowtail quad named Frisky—and my surf mat. This is my 60th year on this Earth and Easter 2011 marked my 47th surfing anniversary for surfing standing on a board. (I have enjoyed the ocean body-surfing and ridding mats and bellyboards as a youngster). Steve and I are getting up there in age and definitely feel it sometimes, but we keep a positive attitude and we keep moving. We take care of ourselves, eat healthy and swim to keep in shape and to support our surfing. We also love riding our 4th Gear flyers from Paul Gross, they are super fun and a work out, too. We are stoked and are grateful for each day. Steve and I are dedicated to our work and arts but the ocean helps us keep a healthy balance. Steve has a quip he likes to say with a chuckle, after a work day and an afternoon surf "Well, that's one that the couch didn't get, hahaha!"

This last week there were small clean waves, so I decided to ride a special longer board, the beautiful 7'7 Skip Frye Fish Simmons (LT Peliglide) that Skipper very kindly shared with me in 2006, after my hip replacement. This board is Skip's personal board and is named after Ladainian Tomlinson, as Skip is a big fan of the Chargers. So, I took LT for a paddle cruise and glide session, Monday through Thursday mornings and had so much fun. My favorite wave was about chest high with some lined up sections, in which a squadron of pelicans flew right over me, also gliding on the wave! The high aspect Geppie twins on the Fish Simmons allow you to trim a very high line (and change direction quickly and smoothly). It's also an amazing feeling to experience Skip's fast rail. It's been awhile since I've ridden a board over 6'7" and the glide felt wonderful. Thank you Skipper!

On Thursday the waves were more consistent and a little bigger and I could have ridden one of my smaller boards. Still, LT and I shared the longest rides on the small perfect waves, so grateful! Our friend Marcos was also out and we had fun "splitting the peak" when the sets offered only one good wave. The Thursday afternoon forecast predicted a little more surf for Friday, so I decided to dedicate the week to Skip's boards and take out the beautiful 6'8" Fish that he shaped me a few years ago. In 2007 Skipper shaped a magic 6'8" fish with special rocker and template for my favorite spots. Her name Mama Garibaldi came when the Garribaldi fish were drawn to her deep golden color. I drew a Garribaldi in a kelp barrel on the deck and an open-winged pelican above the Skipper wings. Friday morning brought a little bit more windswell and the same small southwest. Mama Garribaldi and I paddled and surfed from reef to reef and caught some fun sliders, and there were even a couple of sections where we got to boogie! As with every day this week, I paddled back so stoked to be out on the ocean enjoying the gift of a reef-to-reef paddle and the fun waves. Skipper thank you, your boards are treasures.

We are grateful to be surfing, and every wave is a gift. Take care and remember the love. God bless you.

Love and Aloha, Cher and Steve

Thanks for visiting our blog - care to join in?

This blog currently would like to add some more contributing writers to the roster, and get some added imput from you stoked surfers who just don't want to quit surfing and being stoked!

You don't have to be a surfer over 50 to be an author - just someone who is determined to stay fit, enjoy the active lifestyle, and never stop being stoked no matter how old you are!

If you'd like to join our blog as an active contributor, please email Huck. Just scroll down to the list of contributing authors, click Huck, then click email under my pic. Look forward to hearing from ya'!

Old Boy's Story . . .

click the link: Dogtown to Rincon: Bill Urbany

It was good to hit a few little ones after work the other night. The light was beautiful so I decided to sacrifice a few waves and come in early to take few shots. I reckon it was all worth it after a grabbing this shot of one of the 'old boys' that got one of the better waves that evening.

61 years old and riding a 6'0" fish!

the following showed up recently as a comment on an older posting. I found it thought provoking, so I am re-posting here:

I'm 61 and I still ride short board. Well, it's a 6'0" fish. It's not always easy because I don't paddle as well as I used to and I get out of shape really fast, but when the stars are aligned correctly I can still get some fun waves. I refuse to give up on the feeling of pumping down the line, coming off the bottom and hitting the lip that only a short board offers. I have little interest in long boarding, except as a defensive weapon to get some waves on crowded days.

I just returned from a 3 week trip to Puerto Rico. The crowds were insane. Long boards, paddle boards and lunatic kooks in surf schools made getting waves at the popular point breaks impossible. But when I went around the point to shallow, harder breaking wave with an urchin covered coral reef bottom I was able to get all I wanted. I took my lumps, no doubt, I admit.

I don't ride big waves anymore. I don't think I could handle the hold-downs and the paddling. There are days when my back is so bad I can't even get to my feet or if I do, it ain't pretty to watch... and then I do "look silly". But, so frigging what? One zippy little barrel or a nice backside off the lip makes all the frustration well worth while. I feel like I'm playing with house money at this point anyway.

All the little things about surfing I took for granted or was annoyed by for so many years are a joy for me now. Just paddling out, duck diving through waves, scratching for the horizon when a big set is coming, walking back to my truck in the evening after a session, feeling that wonderful exhaustion that only surfing has ever given me are things I treasure.

The thing is, don't sell yourself short because you're older. Make the effort to get in shape and stay there. Just surf alot. Screw obnoxious little groms. Some of them aren't so bad anyway. I had a kid paddle up to me and tell me how good my turns were. Made my day. I mean, let's face it, most of like compliments. And any encouragement we get at this point is welcome, no?

Most of all, ignore the old man that is in all of us. Ignore your buddies who try and discourage you because they can't or won't surf anymore. Misery loves company. Listen to the little kid who still mind surfs every wave he sees, no matter how small. Just do me a favor and give old farts like me on shorter boards a wave once in awhile... W. R.