Tuesday, April 13, 2010

Unlike many of you...............

...........I did not start to surf until I was nearly 50. 49 to be exact. As my newly acquired partner at the time Michelle had just started to learn, and the bloke across the road had a 7' 6" mini mal that he was willing to lend to me, I thought ok, lets have a go at this - even though I was terribly overweight and unfit.
Still a little overweight but way way fitter, healthier and having fun - so it would have to rate as one of the best decisions I have ever made!
9 years later we are still both mad keen and have organised our lives, as much as possible, around the opportunity to ride waves.
I refer to myself as a wave rider rather than a surfer because I started to realise that the majority of surfers seemed to have had a very narrow and competitive view of their chosen activity which I did not empathise with.
I am loath to:
1. Take myself too seriously.
2. Scrabble about on a shortboard when the waves are too small and not have the sense to use a more appropriate ( maybe longer? ) form of wave craft.
3. Not to be stoked to share and call others riders on to a wave.
4. Not to have a quiver of wave craft of all types that allow me to make the best of any conditions.
5. Not to understand that the 1st rule of surf etiquette includes "whoever has been waiting longest".
6. Not to understand that females have the right to share the line up also.
7. To forget that the surfer having the most fun is the best surfer.
Currently my quiver includes:
1. A 10' 10" Walden SUP
2. A 10' Warren Thompson single fin
3. An 8' 1" McTavish Carver
4. Access to a 6' 10" Aido Accelerator my partner Michelle now owns
4. A BZ Big Bruddah bodyboard
5. A POD handboard
6. and of course a pair of POD fins
I am very seriously considering adding a 4th Gear Flyer mat to my quiver also.
I create and administer the blog "Waveriders" and invite you to take the time to visit occasionally. (note from Huck: I have added the waveriders blog to my blogs list - when a new post is added, the blog will show on the right)
Hello to all of you and thanks for inviting me to contribute Huck.

6 comments:

  1. Nice quiver. And do get a mat!! It is more fun than it should be! Let me know if you need help getting in touch with Paul about mats.

    surfsister@sbcglobal.net

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  2. Cheers Surfsister. So tell me, how are they for actually getting on to a wave. Similar to a bodyboard or harder/easier?

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  3. Too late I have ordered a Fatty and I can barely wait for it to arrive!

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  4. Oh!! Hmm, I've never ridden a body board. I think the fins you use have a lot to do with the ease of getting into a wave. My fins require that I also paddle while I kick. But I'm going to get some different fins—ones with a longer blade—to try and remedy that problem. Nonetheless, mats are so much fun. And there must be something to them if Greenough will only ride a mat these days. (I'll have you know he only rides Paul's mats!)

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  5. Another mat convert ;-)

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  6. Surfsister, I paddle with one arm as I am taking off on the bodyboard and I ride it fairly often so my kicking muscles are in pretty reasonable shape. and oh yeh, I know GG is a 4GF guy and one inspirational kinda guy too!!
    Well hopefully, Matt23.
    From what I have been reading, I am a little worried I might give up riding anything else!

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