age - it sneaks up on you!

Swaylocks, the website where I serve as a moderator, is the foremost surfboard design and construction forum on the world wide web - but from time to time tangential subjects come up, like the challenges of surfing as we age.  Thought I'd share some of these recent (and not so recent) comments from the soldiers in the trenches, as I get the time and opportunity.

I'll start with Jack, who had an eye-opening session demonstrating the subtle and cumulative effects of the aging process.  Jack is not unusual in suddenly becoming aware that age had snuck in the back door while he was busy just dealing with life, and imposed some new and unwelcome limitations.

Jack writes, " I have always been in pretty good shape as I have been lucky to look and feel at least 10 years younger than I am,  a blessing for sure.  However, I have never been much into working out or running etc.  I just kind of kept in shape by staying active playing tennis, surfing, playing with my kids etc.  But now as I am about to turn 48 I am feeling my age for the first time.  I married a younger woman 3 years ago and we have a beautiful new baby.  So that, work, and lack of waves (I live in S. FL.) has kept me out of the water.  Living in S.FL waves are infrequent and really infrequent in the summer.  You really have to be on it when it's on.  As you know swell, wind, tide and light just does not go by your schedule.  So I have found it very hard to get out there.  These days I surf a couple of times in the summer and once every couple of weeks other times of year.   I used to be able to surf at least once a week or more during the better times of year.  Those times seem to be gone now.

"Anyway, yesterday after about 4 months or so of not surfing (kids, baby, life, timing of swell, etc.) I finally made it out.  Got up for a early morning sesh.  Tropical disturbance brought us some 3-5 foot waves but with heavy on shore and a bit of victory at see conditions.  Tough go after not surfing for a while but nothing was going to stop me.  So I stretched a bit and hit it.  10 minutes of paddling and duck diving and I hit the wall and didn't make it out.   What!   Embarrassing.  Not me not here.  The waves aren’t big just relentless.  Sat on the beach a few to catch my breath and take my licking.  Hit it again.  Almost out and a set comes in and cleans me up!  WTH.  I'm pathetic.  Back to the beach to lick my wounds and catch my breath and let my rubbery arms rest.  Here I go again, 3rd time’s a charm, finally made it out.  But now my arms are rubber and I'm out of breath.  Set's coming in and I just have to wait to rest.  I'm thinking, "I can't drown out here, I have family that needs me".  What!  So here comes a wave, I paddle kind of.  Get it start to stand up feel weak and just chunk it.  Jeeze what a kook (I used to be a pretty decent surfer)!  Got to get back out, ok did it, I’m out again and paddling against the wind and waves.  Paddle for a couple and don't get in.  Here comes one, I got it.  Tired up slow stand then hurl.  Now a set cleans me up and I just can't get back out. Can't risk it I'm done just too tired and don't want to be stupid.  Spent.  Slither back to the beach feeling defeated like a complete kook.  The wind is blowing, I can smell the sea, the salt on my skin.  I shower get dressed and drive home.

"I'm home and a bit disappointed.  I'm feeling my age, I’m scarred.  I'm a surfer, since I was 13 and first gave it a go I fell in love with the sport and it's just been my favorite activity and pastime, nothing else compares.  But now what?  Actually, I'm feeling pretty good, my spirits are up I feel a bit exhilarated.  Just going out being in the water, paddling, working, moving, being with the ocean again.  I need to change things.  I know that now.  Reading this blog, finding I am not alone.  Living in S. FL I can't surf as much as I like to be in shape so I have to be more fit.  Next time I can get out, things will be different, better, more confident, more fun.  Thanks for the stoke, I remember what it was like.

"I wonder if there are waves today?  Maybe I can hit it after work. :)" - Jack

crowd surfing for the senior set

I'm 60 years old, and I regularly surf the crowded surf spots of north L.A. county, and Ventura.  I have learned that there are a few things that work for me, to keep the experience enjoyable.

First and foremost is attitude.  We are there to have fun.  There is no wave worth fighting over, or injuring someone, or ruining their day.  I try to keep the safety and stoke of myself and others in the forefront of my mind at all times.  When someone gets a wave I wanted, I remind myself, that person paid their dues to be out the same as me, they deserve a good ride as much as I do.

But neither can you give in to the intimidation or bully techniques sometimes seen in the lineup.  Paddle for each wave like you mean business.  If you're not sure that someone else has it, go for it.  Then, once you're up, if you see there is someone behind you, kick out.  Let the guy with priority have his wave.  That's good surf etiquette, and I believe in practicing it, even if no one else is.  If someone snakes me, I try to let them know I'm behind them, without getting hostile or spoiling the vibe.   OK, maybe a little stinkeye, but nothing more severe than that :-)

Keep your expectations reasonable.  Some days the crowds are so thick, I just tell myself I'm gonna paddle around the lineup for practice and exercise, any waves will just be a bonus.  And I almost always get a few, but I don't stress out over the ones I miss because of the crowd.  I like to do dawn patrol, get a few waves, and then go on with my day.  Except in rare instances, I let the 'kids' have the mid-day.

Equipment: ride a board that's an easy paddler.  People think old guys ride longboards because they're easier to surf.  I ride them because they're easier to paddle, and catch waves with!  If I didn't surf aggro crowds, or if a little respect and leeway was offered to the older surfers. I'd ride shorter boards.  In fact, I still sometimes do ride shorter boards, but the thicker the crowd, the longer board I prefer.

I always try to share a smile and a little stoke, maybe hoot for someone else's wave, loan out some surf wax, compliment a good wave, ask someone how their session went and really listen, whether it was good or bad.  Surfing is all about fun and a good time, never lose sight of that, even in the midst of a crowd that seems to have.